Flight: Early morning flight on British Airways. As always very pleasant and
attentive service. 777 with individual monitors offering numerous films and
entertainment. I watched "Angela's Ashes" and my wife watched "The Muse." Food
excellent for airline food. Lots of little treats in between like ice cream and
so on. No complaints whatsoever about the flight over.
Arrival: Arrived on time and zipped through customs in record time.
London Transfers: Outside customs we met Ray Skinner of London Transfers. Whatever praise has been heaped on Mr. Skinner on this board is faint compared with reality. Ray is a gentleman and a total professional as well as a charming and knowledgeable Englishman. In addition to your transfer to London fro the airport you get a mini tour of the city including a commentary on London society and history. All done in the most gentle and soothing manner. I guess you might say that we liked Ray quite a lot! As long as he's in business we will be using his service. Not to mention that for two or more it's also the cheapest (excluding the Tube) way into town. It's £25 each way (£5. additional charge for airport pick-up). Do yourself a favor and use London Transfers.
Hotel: We arrived at the Strand Palace Hotel at about 21:15 (9:15PM) and Ray whisked us (and our bags) into the lobby. After a final check of the date and time to pick us up Ray was off and we were checked in and on our way to our room.
Our room was all right but a bit small and not a nonsmoking room. We had forgotten to ask for one. After settling in we went back down for a snack at the Italian place downstairs. A quick slice and a drink and we began to get very tired so off to bed. We stopped at the desk before retiring to ask about a nonsmoking room. The chap at reception and the house manager seemed genuinely concerned that we weren't happy (actually we weren't all that unhappy just thought we could do better). They assured us that when we returned from our day out the next day all would be made right.
When we did get back to the hotel after touring around the city next day we had new keys waiting for us and a new room: Both rooms had been on the "Club" floors of the hotel. This is important as they are the better rooms in the hotel with more amenities and a private lounge for reading and socializing. I used it to read the Times every morningso as not to rush my wife.
Our new room was much larger the first. A small foyer as you enter (about 5X5) with a handy little alcove for storing luggage and the good sized bathroom off to the left.
The room itself was fairly large. I paced it off at about 14X16 with a very comfortable bed, a desk and a credenza for storage with the TV on top. Only one closet but certainly large enough for two. Hairdryer in drawer of desk large window for plenty of light. One drawback was that our room faced the Strand which can be noisy at night but this didn't bother us and we slept well
Our room came with continental breakfast included and the desk clerk advised us to take it in the room. (Good advice as the breakfast room was very crowded most days) It consisted of a basket of croissants and sweet rolls, juice, cereal, yogurt, fresh fruit and fresh-brewed coffee. For continental breakfast it was huge. Usually more than we could eat. We usually took the leftovers with us and had them to the first homeless person we saw. It seemed very much appreciated. Couldn't see throwing it away.
The Strand Palace Hotel is overall a good bet. The room size, the location and the courtesy of the staff made it a very pleasant home for our stay. Of the restaurants in it the Italian place was all right but we didn't go back. The bar, Johnston's, was pleasant enough and after a visit or two the servers treated us like we'd been coming all our lives. I mainly drank there. Happy Hour was very good. A Guinness which is normally £2.50 is only 1.50. Other drinks reduced accordingly. Of the menu the sandwiches were the best. Not the place to dine but good for a snack. The Pannini sandwiches were very tasty. The chicken and pesto particularly good. Food service until midnight.
As for the location, that made our stay very pleasant. It's right in the center of everything. Most theatres are only minutes away and lots of good restaurants and pubs as well as very good sandwich bars nearby. Also a Starbuck's right downstairs.
Sights: We've been to London a number of times and have seen all the major tourist sights so didn't need to do that with the exception of one or two that we hadn't been to.
Here's what we did: A stroll through Chelsea. Very charming and peaceful. Lots of good eating places and pubs (King's Head and Eight Bells one of London's best). Found a wonderful pair of cuff links (£5.00) at a second hand store. Wealthy area--it's amazing the things you'll find in the second hand shops. Walked along Kings Road to Sloane Square. Lunch at Pret a Manger on Kings Road. Very good and VERY cheap. I had a "Green Thai Chicken" roll-up with large still water and three delicious brownies. I liked the first so much I went back for another for my wife and they gave a third free because I liked them so much. Total less than £6.
Museum of London. Very worthwhile. Worth it for the view of the Roman wall outside. Lunch at the Black Friar on Queen Victoria Street. Highly recommended. My wife had a jacket potato with caramelized onions and cheese and a salad and I had the roast of the day (beef) with roast potatoes and vegetables and onion gravy. Very good and all for under £8.00 Pint of bitter extra.
Saw "The Woman in Black" at the Fortune theatre just three blocks for hotel. Just walked up yo the box office and got two very good seats in the stalls. £25.00 each. Play very good. A thriller. Some good acting and a few genuine frights.
Madame Tussaud's. Hadn't ever been so..... It's everything you think it will be. And more. Long lines but move quickly and staff gives out sweets along the way. The figures are amazing. Some a bit cheesy others so uncannily life like as to be frightening. The main room is a mob scene but fun to watch people having their picture taken with the famous. The other patrons are almost as much fun to watch as the exhibits. Afterward the Seashell in Lisson Grove for fish and chips lunch. VERY GOOD! and also very cheap. Around £8. or 9. for two fish and chips (my wife had Rock Salmon and I had Plaice, but lots of varieties of fish from which to choose), one cole slaw (very good as well) and two soft drinks. Chips very good with wonderful malt vinegar. Afterward strolled down through Hyde Park and on to the hotel via St James's Park for welcome nap before going out to dinner at Thai Square on Cockspur Street right near Trafalgar Square. Very good. Appetizers, two drinks each and wonderful entrees for £48.
Portobello Road Market. A mad crush of humanity. Interesting but exhausting. No great bargains to be had for the most part. Back to the hotel but first a sandwich at Tops a sandwich bar on Bedford Street around the corner form the Strand Palace. Parma Ham and Mozzarella cheese soft drinks and tea for about £5. Who says this city is expensive to eat in?
Imperial War Museum in Southwark. A MUST SEE museum. Even if you don't think you're interested you most likely will be. Not just armaments. We both enjoyed it. Especially the "Trench Experience" (WWI) and the "Blitz Experience" (WWII)
That night dinner at the North Sea Fish Restaurant on Leigh St in Bloomsbury. (Had a pint first a the Museum Tavern first) Excellent! All fresh fish and seafood served by friendly waitresses. Three courses and drinks about £34.
Train to Winchester from Waterloo. Cheap Day Return £17. Winchester is fantastic! charming and totally walkable from the station. The cathedral is wonderful and HUGE! Had a drink at the Wykeham Arms in Kingsgate St. My new favorite pub in England. Trust me on this one: If you go to Winchester, go to the Wykeham Arms. You will not regret it. A very proper British gentleman, upon hearing that we were from Boston, told me a good joke about Harvard but it can't be repeated here. No food on Sundays though so they directed us to the Queen's Pub down the street. Also good. My wife had a salad and I had a Yorkshire Pudding stuffed with lamb and potatoes, vegs and gravy. A couple pints for a total of about £11.
Courtauld Gallery just down the street from the hotel very worth a visit. Largely overlooked gallery housing some amazing works.
Strolled up through Lincoln's Inn Fields area. Lucky enough to catch a TV film being made. Don't know what it was but fun to watch. Dinner at the Palm in Kings St. Good pasta and very friendly and quiet.
Mayfair Walk. Followed the Eyewitness Guide's "A Two Hour Walk through Mayfair." Very easy to follow and very charming. Starts at the Ritz and ends at Hyde Park Corner. Two really good pubs on this walk: The Nag's Head on Kinnerton Street (possibly the best I've been to in London) and The Grenadier on Wilton Row.
Misc.: Strolled through Victoria Embankment Gardens. Very beautiful. The London Eye. Very much more impressive in person than in photos. Long lines but you can buy tickets in advance. Hungerford Foot Bridge. Wonderful views of the city. Big Ben at night. After all these years still one of the most impressive sights in London. Charing Cross Road. Wonderful browsing in bookstores and shops. Queen's Chapel and burying ground near the Savoy. Charming. Interesting pub near the chapel: The Tup. Didn't go in but looked good for next time. Very interesting Latin motto on the sign. Look for it if you go. National Portrait Gallery. Sherlock Holmes statue in Baker St.
Restaurants:
Pret a Manger, Everywhere and very good and cheap. Very friendly staff.
Porters in Henrietta St., Nice place. Food good but not great. But very "homey" British recipes. Good savory pies like steak and mushroom, lamb and fish.
Black Friar in Queen Victoria Street, Fascinating decor. Looks older than it is. Very friendly and welcoming with good food sold cheaply.
Seashell in Lisson Grove, Tops for fish and chips. Many different varieties of fish and very good chips.
Thai Square in Cockspur St., Right near Trafalgar Square. Very good Thai food but some very hot dishes so be cautious. I had the Jungle Curry. Very good. Also, good appetizers especially the fish cake and the shrimp spring rolls. Thai beer OK but prefer English bitter
North Sea Fish Rest in Leigh St. Bloomsbury, Wonderfully welcoming and comfortable. Excellent fish dishes and appetizers.
The Palm in King Street. Great pastas and appetizers. Also very friendly staff.
Pubs on this trip:
Kings Head and Eight Bells: 50 Cheyne Walk, Chelsea. If you're in Chelsea and you don't visit this pub it would be a shame. It's one of the most charming in the area. Good staff with good food and tables outside if it's sunny.
Chandos: 29 St. Martin's Lane. Covent Garden. For a pub in the center of it all very neighborhood feel to it. Once inside it's another world.
Sherlock Holmes Pub: 10 Northumberland St. Off The Strand, Charing Cross. Sherlock Holmes associations aside this is a good pub.
Coal Hole: The Strand, London. Another good pub.
Hand and Racket: Whitcomb St. Very good spot. Nice decor and friendly staff.
Black Friar: 174 Queen Victoria St. The City. Art Deco wonderland. Good neighborhood sort of place with very good food and staff
The Wellington: Corner of Wellington and The Strand. Afterwork sort of pub. Youngish staff but attentive.
Museum Tavern: 49 Great Russell St., Bloomsbury. Charming and great lunches. Right opposite the British Museum.
Nag's Head: Kinnerton St., Mayfair. VERY charming and warm pub. Very small and a real local cliental. A cheerful log fire on the hearth welcomes you to this must see pub.
Grenadier: Wilton St., Mayfair. Duke of Wellington associations and charming and friendly.
Strand Palace Hotel
Strand, London, WC2R 0JJ
Arrival: Arrived on time and zipped through customs in record time.
London Transfers: Outside customs we met Ray Skinner of London Transfers. Whatever praise has been heaped on Mr. Skinner on this board is faint compared with reality. Ray is a gentleman and a total professional as well as a charming and knowledgeable Englishman. In addition to your transfer to London fro the airport you get a mini tour of the city including a commentary on London society and history. All done in the most gentle and soothing manner. I guess you might say that we liked Ray quite a lot! As long as he's in business we will be using his service. Not to mention that for two or more it's also the cheapest (excluding the Tube) way into town. It's £25 each way (£5. additional charge for airport pick-up). Do yourself a favor and use London Transfers.
Hotel: We arrived at the Strand Palace Hotel at about 21:15 (9:15PM) and Ray whisked us (and our bags) into the lobby. After a final check of the date and time to pick us up Ray was off and we were checked in and on our way to our room.
Our room was all right but a bit small and not a nonsmoking room. We had forgotten to ask for one. After settling in we went back down for a snack at the Italian place downstairs. A quick slice and a drink and we began to get very tired so off to bed. We stopped at the desk before retiring to ask about a nonsmoking room. The chap at reception and the house manager seemed genuinely concerned that we weren't happy (actually we weren't all that unhappy just thought we could do better). They assured us that when we returned from our day out the next day all would be made right.
When we did get back to the hotel after touring around the city next day we had new keys waiting for us and a new room: Both rooms had been on the "Club" floors of the hotel. This is important as they are the better rooms in the hotel with more amenities and a private lounge for reading and socializing. I used it to read the Times every morningso as not to rush my wife.
Our new room was much larger the first. A small foyer as you enter (about 5X5) with a handy little alcove for storing luggage and the good sized bathroom off to the left.
The room itself was fairly large. I paced it off at about 14X16 with a very comfortable bed, a desk and a credenza for storage with the TV on top. Only one closet but certainly large enough for two. Hairdryer in drawer of desk large window for plenty of light. One drawback was that our room faced the Strand which can be noisy at night but this didn't bother us and we slept well
Our room came with continental breakfast included and the desk clerk advised us to take it in the room. (Good advice as the breakfast room was very crowded most days) It consisted of a basket of croissants and sweet rolls, juice, cereal, yogurt, fresh fruit and fresh-brewed coffee. For continental breakfast it was huge. Usually more than we could eat. We usually took the leftovers with us and had them to the first homeless person we saw. It seemed very much appreciated. Couldn't see throwing it away.
The Strand Palace Hotel is overall a good bet. The room size, the location and the courtesy of the staff made it a very pleasant home for our stay. Of the restaurants in it the Italian place was all right but we didn't go back. The bar, Johnston's, was pleasant enough and after a visit or two the servers treated us like we'd been coming all our lives. I mainly drank there. Happy Hour was very good. A Guinness which is normally £2.50 is only 1.50. Other drinks reduced accordingly. Of the menu the sandwiches were the best. Not the place to dine but good for a snack. The Pannini sandwiches were very tasty. The chicken and pesto particularly good. Food service until midnight.
As for the location, that made our stay very pleasant. It's right in the center of everything. Most theatres are only minutes away and lots of good restaurants and pubs as well as very good sandwich bars nearby. Also a Starbuck's right downstairs.
Sights: We've been to London a number of times and have seen all the major tourist sights so didn't need to do that with the exception of one or two that we hadn't been to.
Here's what we did: A stroll through Chelsea. Very charming and peaceful. Lots of good eating places and pubs (King's Head and Eight Bells one of London's best). Found a wonderful pair of cuff links (£5.00) at a second hand store. Wealthy area--it's amazing the things you'll find in the second hand shops. Walked along Kings Road to Sloane Square. Lunch at Pret a Manger on Kings Road. Very good and VERY cheap. I had a "Green Thai Chicken" roll-up with large still water and three delicious brownies. I liked the first so much I went back for another for my wife and they gave a third free because I liked them so much. Total less than £6.
Museum of London. Very worthwhile. Worth it for the view of the Roman wall outside. Lunch at the Black Friar on Queen Victoria Street. Highly recommended. My wife had a jacket potato with caramelized onions and cheese and a salad and I had the roast of the day (beef) with roast potatoes and vegetables and onion gravy. Very good and all for under £8.00 Pint of bitter extra.
Saw "The Woman in Black" at the Fortune theatre just three blocks for hotel. Just walked up yo the box office and got two very good seats in the stalls. £25.00 each. Play very good. A thriller. Some good acting and a few genuine frights.
Madame Tussaud's. Hadn't ever been so..... It's everything you think it will be. And more. Long lines but move quickly and staff gives out sweets along the way. The figures are amazing. Some a bit cheesy others so uncannily life like as to be frightening. The main room is a mob scene but fun to watch people having their picture taken with the famous. The other patrons are almost as much fun to watch as the exhibits. Afterward the Seashell in Lisson Grove for fish and chips lunch. VERY GOOD! and also very cheap. Around £8. or 9. for two fish and chips (my wife had Rock Salmon and I had Plaice, but lots of varieties of fish from which to choose), one cole slaw (very good as well) and two soft drinks. Chips very good with wonderful malt vinegar. Afterward strolled down through Hyde Park and on to the hotel via St James's Park for welcome nap before going out to dinner at Thai Square on Cockspur Street right near Trafalgar Square. Very good. Appetizers, two drinks each and wonderful entrees for £48.
Portobello Road Market. A mad crush of humanity. Interesting but exhausting. No great bargains to be had for the most part. Back to the hotel but first a sandwich at Tops a sandwich bar on Bedford Street around the corner form the Strand Palace. Parma Ham and Mozzarella cheese soft drinks and tea for about £5. Who says this city is expensive to eat in?
Imperial War Museum in Southwark. A MUST SEE museum. Even if you don't think you're interested you most likely will be. Not just armaments. We both enjoyed it. Especially the "Trench Experience" (WWI) and the "Blitz Experience" (WWII)
That night dinner at the North Sea Fish Restaurant on Leigh St in Bloomsbury. (Had a pint first a the Museum Tavern first) Excellent! All fresh fish and seafood served by friendly waitresses. Three courses and drinks about £34.
Train to Winchester from Waterloo. Cheap Day Return £17. Winchester is fantastic! charming and totally walkable from the station. The cathedral is wonderful and HUGE! Had a drink at the Wykeham Arms in Kingsgate St. My new favorite pub in England. Trust me on this one: If you go to Winchester, go to the Wykeham Arms. You will not regret it. A very proper British gentleman, upon hearing that we were from Boston, told me a good joke about Harvard but it can't be repeated here. No food on Sundays though so they directed us to the Queen's Pub down the street. Also good. My wife had a salad and I had a Yorkshire Pudding stuffed with lamb and potatoes, vegs and gravy. A couple pints for a total of about £11.
Courtauld Gallery just down the street from the hotel very worth a visit. Largely overlooked gallery housing some amazing works.
Strolled up through Lincoln's Inn Fields area. Lucky enough to catch a TV film being made. Don't know what it was but fun to watch. Dinner at the Palm in Kings St. Good pasta and very friendly and quiet.
Mayfair Walk. Followed the Eyewitness Guide's "A Two Hour Walk through Mayfair." Very easy to follow and very charming. Starts at the Ritz and ends at Hyde Park Corner. Two really good pubs on this walk: The Nag's Head on Kinnerton Street (possibly the best I've been to in London) and The Grenadier on Wilton Row.
Misc.: Strolled through Victoria Embankment Gardens. Very beautiful. The London Eye. Very much more impressive in person than in photos. Long lines but you can buy tickets in advance. Hungerford Foot Bridge. Wonderful views of the city. Big Ben at night. After all these years still one of the most impressive sights in London. Charing Cross Road. Wonderful browsing in bookstores and shops. Queen's Chapel and burying ground near the Savoy. Charming. Interesting pub near the chapel: The Tup. Didn't go in but looked good for next time. Very interesting Latin motto on the sign. Look for it if you go. National Portrait Gallery. Sherlock Holmes statue in Baker St.
Restaurants:
Pret a Manger, Everywhere and very good and cheap. Very friendly staff.
Porters in Henrietta St., Nice place. Food good but not great. But very "homey" British recipes. Good savory pies like steak and mushroom, lamb and fish.
Black Friar in Queen Victoria Street, Fascinating decor. Looks older than it is. Very friendly and welcoming with good food sold cheaply.
Seashell in Lisson Grove, Tops for fish and chips. Many different varieties of fish and very good chips.
Thai Square in Cockspur St., Right near Trafalgar Square. Very good Thai food but some very hot dishes so be cautious. I had the Jungle Curry. Very good. Also, good appetizers especially the fish cake and the shrimp spring rolls. Thai beer OK but prefer English bitter
North Sea Fish Rest in Leigh St. Bloomsbury, Wonderfully welcoming and comfortable. Excellent fish dishes and appetizers.
The Palm in King Street. Great pastas and appetizers. Also very friendly staff.
Pubs on this trip:
Kings Head and Eight Bells: 50 Cheyne Walk, Chelsea. If you're in Chelsea and you don't visit this pub it would be a shame. It's one of the most charming in the area. Good staff with good food and tables outside if it's sunny.
Chandos: 29 St. Martin's Lane. Covent Garden. For a pub in the center of it all very neighborhood feel to it. Once inside it's another world.
Sherlock Holmes Pub: 10 Northumberland St. Off The Strand, Charing Cross. Sherlock Holmes associations aside this is a good pub.
Coal Hole: The Strand, London. Another good pub.
Hand and Racket: Whitcomb St. Very good spot. Nice decor and friendly staff.
Black Friar: 174 Queen Victoria St. The City. Art Deco wonderland. Good neighborhood sort of place with very good food and staff
The Wellington: Corner of Wellington and The Strand. Afterwork sort of pub. Youngish staff but attentive.
Museum Tavern: 49 Great Russell St., Bloomsbury. Charming and great lunches. Right opposite the British Museum.
Nag's Head: Kinnerton St., Mayfair. VERY charming and warm pub. Very small and a real local cliental. A cheerful log fire on the hearth welcomes you to this must see pub.
Grenadier: Wilton St., Mayfair. Duke of Wellington associations and charming and friendly.
Strand Palace Hotel
Strand, London, WC2R 0JJ
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